Wind blowing across the surface of the sea creates ripples of energy in the water. Although it appears that the water is moving along, it is actually moving in a circle. At the shore, the circular movement is broken, and the crest of a wave topples over as it meets the land. Powerful waves create a tremendous force when they crash against the shore — in storms they can cause severe damage. The height and power of a wave depends on the power of the wind.
These days, we have surf reports, swell reports and surf forecasts that show us when and where we should be hanging ten next. Reasonably accurate online charts save surfers the hassle of deciphering complicated weather forecasts. However, the more you know about how waves are formed, the easier it is to predict the optimal surfing conditions all by yourself.
You don’t necessarily need to be a surfer to be fascinated with waves. All beach lovers are in awe of the ocean’s rolling waves, a trance-inducing sound and sight. But have you ever found yourself wondering how exactly waves are formed? Let me give you a hint – the wind is the very reason surfing exists in the first place.
So, what is it exactly that makes the ocean so restless, and how are great surfing conditions created? To help you understand this natural phenomenon, we’ll break down the anatomy of a wave, from how it is formed far out at sea to the way it breaks close to shore.
Water transmits energy, and waves are the result of energy passing through water. This energy is most often caused by the wind, but there can be other factors too, such as earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides and even melting of Arctic ice caps. When not obstructed, this energy travels in oscillating movements on the surface of the ocean, sea or lake until it reaches the shore. Simply put, wave transport energy.
The most common types of waves that are found throughout the planet are produced by winds and are called wind-driven waves, or friction waves. These are the result of the friction between the wind and the body of water. When the wind blows on the surface of the ocean in a shorewards direction, it causes the water to move and produce a wave crest.
Picture Credit : Google
